Allensworth: The town that refused to die

One hundred years ago, there was a unique town in the southwest corner of Tulare County where African Americans lived and thrived in a discrimination-free society.

Today, you can gain a sense of what life was like for those courageous individuals and families by visiting Colonel Allensworth State Historic Park.

Located seven miles west of Earlimart, the park has 22 lovingly restored and reconstructed buildings from the early 1900’s. There also are interpreters and docents that share the story of this historically important place.

The town is named after Lt. Col. Allen Allensworth—Army chaplain, educator, orator and town founder. Just as Martin Luther King, Jr. had a dream, so did Col. Allensworth. The colonel’s dream was to establish a self-sufficient, all-black California community where African Americans could live their lives free from prejudice and in control of their own destiny. That dream came to fruition on Aug. 3, 1908 when Allensworth and four other settlers filed a township site plan. 

The idea for the town grew out of Allensworth’s life experiences. He was born into slavery in Louisville, Ky. on April 7, 1842, but aspired for more. Intelligent and eager for knowledge, he learned to read and write by playing with the master’s son. In 1862, he fled slavery to join the Union Army and was honorably discharged as a chief petty officer.

After the Civil War, he achieved the formal education he had been denied. He went on to earn a doctorate in theology. He then became a chaplain to the 24th Infantry, one of the Army’s four African American regiments. He retired as a lieutenant colonel in 1906 – the first Black American to attain such a high rank.

After his retirement, he lectured throughout the eastern and mid-western states promoting Booker T. Washington’s philosophy of African American self-reliance.

Once the town was established, word quickly spread to blacks looking for a better life.

People from throughout the nation came to populate the town. Others just purchased property sight unseen to help the cause.

The settlers build homes, a hotel, a library, a Baptist church, a small school, three general stores, a barbershop, a bakery, a restaurant and a drug store. The town was becoming a huge success.

Allensworth was a farming community and its principal crop was alfalfa. At first, there was an abundance of water to support the crop production. With increased farming, however, it became apparent that there wasn’t going to be a sufficient supply. Plus, California experienced its worst drought ever in 1913. This resulted in a severely lowered water table by 1914.

On Sept. 15, 1914, the town suffered its most significant setback, namely with the death of Col. Allensworth. He was crossing a street to preach at a small church in Monrovia when he was struck and killed by a motorcycle.

According to Steve Ptomey, state park interpreter, the combination of the falling water table, poor crops yields, the drought, an economic slump and the colonel’s death were obstacles the town couldn’t overcome.

In the ensuing years, the town’s population continued to decrease. From its maximum population of 250, all of the black families had moved out by 1950.

Following  the assassination of Martin Luther King, Jr. in 1968, interest arose among black leaders to restore Allensworth as a state historic site. In 1974, Gov. Ronald Reagan authorized the California Parks Department to establish the park.

Allensworth has been called the “Town That Refused to Die” and it hasn’t. With continuing restoration and special programs, the town is coming back to life. It yearly attracts more than 70,000 visitors. In addition, park interpreters share the town’s story with approximately 5,000 Tulare County school children annually. The kids particularly enjoy a visit from Colonel Allensworth, a puppet shown by Interpreter Ptomey.

Throughout the year, the park has many special events. These include Black History Month in February, an Old Time Jubilee in May, “Juneteenth” (June 19) celebrating the end of slavery, Lantern Light Ghost Tours in September and October, and its annual rededication on Oct. 9.

Computer enthusiasts can check out the park at www.parks.ca.gov and take a virtual tour of the historic buildings. 

The park is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The visitor’s center has the same hours. The center features a video titled, “ Allensworth: A Piece of the World.”  You can take either a self-guided tour of the various buildings or participate in interpreter-led tours. These can be arranged by calling 661-849-4012. Admission to the park is $6 per car.

You can reach the Allensworth State Historic Park from Highway 99 by taking the Alpaugh exit in Earlimart and then following the well-marked signs.

In 1908, Col. Allen Allensworth had a dream of establishing a place where African Americans could pursue their hopes and desires for a better life. For a few years, they succeeded. A number of unforeseen circumstances, however, ended that dream.

Fortunately, dedicated individuals have rekindled the interest in the town with the creation of the Colonel Allensworth State Historic Park. It truly is a living example of the American spirit and is well worth a visit.